How to find the perfect white summer dress

A guide to sourcing the ultimate summer frock, for if you’re not fancying florals.

Woman walks through field in white embroidered two-piece with straw hat — Here’s how to source and style the perfect white dress for summer (Seasalt Cornwall/PA)

White for summer? Groundbreaking you may say, with a roll of the eye. Yet, these colourless dresses have flushed the spring/summer 2024 runways, as ripe florals seem to have wilted from designers’ look books.

Model walks down runway in lace and silk v-neck summer dress with crochet tote and chunky heels. — Flowing white frills pervaded the runways at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer (Alamy/PA)

Laura Ashley’s Helen Ashmore notes, “A versatile white dress is a quintessential summer staple, exuding an effortless elegance and breezy freshness that perfectly complements the season’s warmth and light.

“It’s a timeless piece that can seamlessly transition from casual beach days to elegant dinner parties with just a few small tweaks.”

Fashion Week attendee crosses street in all white look with maxi white dress, white opinted heels and a white jacket and beige suede tote — The ‘white noise’ dress trend of head-to-toe monochrome reigned supreme at Paris Fashion Week (Alamy/PA)

Whether you gravitate toward French bohemian frills, fluid Nineties silk or punkish Sixties slips: here is an expert guide to finding the perfect white summer dress.

1. How much you should spend

As a wardrobe staple, the white summer dress is the best opportunity for an investment. “I’m a big believer in making considered choices when clothes shopping,” says Laura Watson, Seasalt Cornwall’s chief creative officer. “Never underestimate the importance of a quality investment piece when it comes to choosing lasting, timeless items you’ll reach for year after year.”

However, fashion designer Amanda Wakeley OBE argues, “It’s not about the price – it’s the quality that counts. Brands like COS, M&S and Uniqlo offer great style and value for money.

“If you want something to last (which should go without saying in this day and age) don’t just look at the style and fit, look at the inside of the dress, the seams and the fabric content label – country of origin doesn’t necessarily tell the full story. Use your eyes and if in doubt, Google the brand’s sustainability creds.”

Model wears cotton midi dress with thin straps and stretched bodice — (COS/PA)

COS Shirred Midi Dress, £85

Model wears white halterneck midi dress with broderie anglais detailing — (Mango/PA)

Mango Embroidered Halter-Neck Dress, £79.99

2. How to make white practical

Notoriously dangerous to wear around food, nature or children, white is a tricky shade to make work in summer.

“While white can be prone to stains, choosing fabrics like linen or cotton blends with subtle textures or patterns can be more forgiving,” says Ashmore. “These materials are both breathable and durable, making them ideal for summer-wear.”

“Patterns or textures – like seersucker, Broderie anglaise or frills – and embellishments in general, can really help to disguise stubborn stains in the moment, making them a safe option for summer parties!” says Clothes Doctor founder, Lulu O’Connor. “The trick with any fabric is not to leave the stain too long, giving it a chance to set.”

Model wears high-neck shirt dress in broderie anglais fabric with frill detailing and a bow belt — (Beaufort and Blake/PA)

Beaufort and Blake Crocus White Broderie Dress, £90 (was £150)

3. Prioritising timelessness

Timelessness often evokes the milky drapery of Vera Wang or Saint Laurent, but this means something entirely different to each of us. Concentrating on the styles you wear again and again is what defines an article as timeless.

“A flared A-line dress is my go-to,” says Watson, “It’s a comfortable, flattering and trend-less staple that you can trust to outlast fast-fashion trends.”

Kate Moss poses on red carpet in white slip maxi dress and matching shawl — A young Kate Moss sported timeless simplicity at Cannes Film Festival (Alamy/PA)

But if Nineties Kate Moss-silk-simplicity is your style, there is an affordable way to achieve this look. Brands such as M&S, Ghost and Nobody’s Child offer designer-inspired styles at a fraction of the cost.

Model wears silk midi dress with slit and spaghetti straps — (Massimo Dutti/PA)

Massimo Dutti Strappy Satin Midi Dress – Studio, £79.95 (was £169)

4. Which style is most versatile

If you’re looking for a style that will last you the years, opting for something relatively modest and simple is your best bet. Trends that lean into certain occasions – such as feather trims for party-wear – are best avoided. “The most timeless silhouette for a white dress is undoubtedly the A-line or maxi style,” notes Ashmore, as it suits every age and body-type.

In regards to material, “natural fabrics such as linen, cotton, hemp and silk for their cooling ability are perfect lightweight and versatile options for all summer occasions,” says O’Connor

If the thought of linen makes you recoil as your steamer or iron springs to mind, Wakeley suggests cotton instead. “White cotton screams summer and doesn’t crease. Viscose is a wonderful summer fabric, it drapes and flows beautifully and, being a natural fibre, it breathes so is cool to wear.”

Model wears A-Line cotton white midi dress — (Nobody’s Child/PA)

Nobody’s Child White Fitted A-line Marina Midi Dress, £85

5. How to style it for all occasions

The importance of investing in a timeless piece like a white summer dress is that it can be styled for a range of occasions. “For a daytime picnic, pair it with a wide-brimmed hat, espadrilles and a wicker basket,” says Ashmore. “For a business-casual look, add a statement jacket and loafers. For an evening event, elevate the dress with statement jewellery, strappy sandals and a clutch.”

Watson suggests opting for an above-the-knee style with a relaxed, flared silhouette. “Wearing it with casual sandals and an oversized beach bag for days by the water or swapping sandals for a pair of fresh, clean trainers and a denim chore jacket – I also love how a square neck scarf can elevate a daily look. For something a little bolder, a statement jacket in a bright colour is a great way to create joyful contrast in an outfit.”